Gurduwara Ibadat sirf Allah ki karien

Before us was the Gurdwara of Nanak, a sad structure with only its skeleton surviving. Inside there was graffiti which read, “Ibadat sirf Allah ki karien”.

Under the dome of the sacred shrine there were pictures of the 10 Sikh Gurus. The faces of all of these portraits had been chiselled out. Next to the pictures, there was a verse from Nanak’s poetry establishing his commitment to monotheism. A few cowherds stood around me staring at the headless pictures of Sikh Gurus.

This was the village of Jhaman, a historical village on the outskirts of Lahore, a village that had been made famous by Guru Nanak Dev ji's visit.